DOWNEAST IN DEPTH: Bangor towards Ellsworth

BANGOR HAS ADOPTED Paul Bunyan as its symbol. Standing in front of the Bangor Auditorium is a 30-foot-high statue of the mythical lumberjack. We're among those who question this choice. Paul Bunyan relates to a by-gone era of seemingly unlimited resources. He is celebrated for prevailing over nature with brute force, clearing timber from Maine to Minnesota, laying waste to millions of trees. Never mentioned is the indescribably ugly scar his unabashed clear-cutting would have left upon the land.

Bangor could have adopted a more relevant symbol, Henry David Thoreau. The famed naturalist/philosopher visited Bangor in the 1860s on his way to Mt. Katahdin. Thoreau's love for the natural world and belief in frugality makes him an appropriate figure to revere.

Bangor can also lay claim to a modern-day icon of the literary world, Stephen King. Although the chamber of commerce guide is silent on the subject, Bangor's leading tourist attraction is the King residence on West Broadway. Here visitors can see King's famous wrought iron spider gate and perhaps catch a glimpse of the great man himself. King has sold more books than any other author in history, and while his critics often are less than adoring, King's popularity shows few signs of abating.

Bangor, which over a century ago was the world's busiest lumber shipping port, has many beautiful, historic structures, both commercial and residential. Bangor's whereabouts was determined by the depth of the Penobscot River. For the pioneers, his was as far into the Maine woods as you could bring a large sailing vessel. The city's location is still of commercial importance. It is on the Great Circle route, making Bangor International Airport 500 miles closer to Europe than any other U.S. terminal.

COMING UP I-95 towards Bangor, you'll come to the Coldbrook Road, on which is situted Dysart's Truck Stop, before you reach the I-395 Junction.

DYSARTS  is an old-fashioned truck stop that's become legendary. It's open 24 hours, and you'll get trucker-size portions whether you order the Yankee pot roast or Daisy's renowned bread pudding. There's no glitz here, but plenty of honest-to-gosh good value. This is a family business that is fun to visit because everybody obviously genuinely likes everybody else. In his guide to Maine, Charles Calhoun called Dysart's "a beacon in the darkness on I-95..." Not long  ago, Dysarts introduced the "Logger Burger,"  a hamburger capable fo feeding a family of four. Dysart's second cookbook is out, with all proceeds again going to cancer charities.

If you stay on I-95, you'll come to exits for Union Street, Ohio Street, Broadway, Stillwater Avenue, and Hogan Road. Stay on I-95 if ou're heading; for Orono, Old Town, or points North.
A turn onto I-395 will take ou to the exits for Hampden, downtown Bangor, downtown Brewer., and Route 1-A, which leads to Ellsworth and Mount Desert Island.


Like many American cities, Bangor has had to struggle to keep a viable downtown following the arrival of an outlying mall. So far, Bangor has been reasonably successful. Shopping downtown here can be fun. Shops, most of which are owner-operated, are highly individualistic. Many times lower prices compensate for exposure to the elements and somewhat less convenient parking.

Taking the Bangor Exit off I395 will put you on Main Street. You'll go by China Harbor, Irving, Bangor Auditorium, Fireside Inn, Geaghan's Pub and Restaurant,  Bangor Chamber of Commerce Info Center.  Cash X-press, Hollywood Slots Casino, Subway, Main Street Garage, Car Wash, Tim Horton's, McDonalds, Herman Tattoo and Body Piercing, Cigar Shoppe, Realty of Maine, Shaw's Supermarket, Bangor waterfront, Darling's Waterfront Pavillion, Seasons in Maine, Dunkin Donuts, Central Fire Station, Homeless Shelter, Police Department, People's United Bank.

Harness racing in Bangor goes back to pre-Civil War times. BASS PARK, which has had a track for trotters for over a century, has been the site of several racing world records. No fewer than fifteen immortals of harness racing's Hall of Fame have competed here. During July, racing programs are held at 7 p.m. Wednesday, Fridays and Saturdays and Sundays at 1:30 p.m. Call 207-947-6744.

a 750,000-square-foot, $132-million, riverfront facility, includes a casino with 1,000 slot machines, video poker, an inexpensive restaurant featuring a rather good buffet, and a seven-story, 152-room hotel. It has added poker and roulette. This is Maine's only casino. If you can resist the temptation to throw money away gambling, it's a fine place to eat.

Concert organizers at DARLING'S WATERFRONT PAVILION have succeeded in bringing to town a wonderfully diverse and attention-getting group of entertainers. Headers have included Keisha, Phish, Miranda Lambert, Lil Wayne, and Rob Zombie. The pavilion truly has provided fun for all.

A left will put you on Union Street which leads to Bangor International Airport and the Airport Mall. Look for Bandgor Historical Society, Isaac Farrar Mansion, and Cornerstone Framing & Fine Art.
In the Mall, look for Marshall's, Ocean State Job Lots, Fashion Bug Plus, Staples, Hannaford's Super Market, Edge Video, Top Care Nails, Johnson Florist, Regis SalonGazebo Sports & Gifts, Kokopoelli's, Rent-A-Center, Maine Indoor Golf Center, Maine Smoke Shop, Radio Shack. Beyond the mall is  the Bangor Nazarene Church.

The BANGOR HISTORICAL SOCIETY (situated in the Thomas A. Hill House, 159 Union St., 942-5766) provides maps for self-guided walking tours thru s eight remaining historic districts.

Across the street from the historical society is the beautiful ISAAC FARRAR MANSION (947-2008), which is open to the public (admission $1). This fine old house (circa 1845) purportedly is haunted by the ghost of a distraught governess. It retains many of its original features, such as carved mahogany paneling, curved and slo
at their retail store in the Bomarc Industrial Park. Bean's is Maine's oldest independent meat packer. Founded in 1860, Bean's has been run by the same family for five generations. The company is known for its spiral-cut, honey-glazed hams, sold across the country by mail order. Each ham is slowly sugar-cured and smoked the old-fashioned way. At their retail store, they also prepare special meat packages at considerable savings. They will pack meats for shipping. Tours of the plant can be arranged. Call 1-800-649-1958;. tted bookcase doors, marble fireplaces, and stained glass windows.

CORNERSTONE FRAMING & ART at 259 Union Street just beyond the Hammond-Union Street intersection will provide a frame for just about anything. On display also is a variety of prints and original art

A left off Union Street onto Hammond Street will take you by Bangor Theological Seminary and businesses that include Chapel Hill Floral, The Growing Place, Papa Gambino's, Jimmy V's, Fairmont Market, Ground Round, Days Inn, Movie Magic Cinemas, Hero's Sports Grill and Entertainment Center, Tim Horton's, Fairfield Inn, Econolodge, Blackbeard's, Ramada Inn, Howard Johnsons, Motel 6, Webb's RV Center, Ranger Motel, Chases Family Restaurant and Hideaway Lounge, Sports Arena, Morgan Hill Events Center, and Morfitas School of Dance.

At the BANGOR NAZARENE CHURCH, there is an old-fashion soda fountain where everything is free.

Keep going straight on Main Street and you'll pass Penobscot Theatre Company, Valentine Footwear, Best Bib & Tucker, Pine Tree Legal Assistance, Verve Burritos, Maine Holistic Center, House of Brides & Formal Wear, Lumiere Photographic Studio, Haworth Academic Center, Nosturnen Draft Haus, Main Street Music Studio, Bella Luna, The 4:20 ShopBeal Realty, Bella Hair Studio, Edge Video, Bangor Window Shades, Bus Terminal, Zen Asian Bistro & Lounge, Discovery Museum, Computer Solutions, Antique Marketplace & Cafe, Taste of India, Knapps Music, Rebecca's, Paddy Murphy's, Herbal Tea & Tobacco, Mexicali Blues,

Edwin Martin of the LUMIERE PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO has been making photographs since 1980. He has a graduate degree in photography from Indiana University, has worked as a photojournalist and a collections curator. He has taught photography at three universities. Since coming to Bangor in 2001, he has been primarily concerned with making a collective portrait of the face of Maine. Working with the Bangor Museum of History, he has photographed in factories and public and private buildings as well as photographing people in a variety of leisure and ceremonial activities.

In a "Best of Maine" issue, Down East magazine said that BELLA LUNA gave the Queen City just what it always needed: a hip little women's exciting as the affordable prices and great customer service.

According to its Mission Statement, the  MAINE DISCOVERY MUSEUM aims  "to educate children and families, encourage creativity, nurture a sense of wonder, and to challenge all to learn in new and innovative ways. Exhibits and programs  are designed to be  be fun, interactive and thought provoking, and encourage participation by children and families of all abilities and socioeconomic backgrounds." The folks here seem to be living up to this ambitious agenda; the place is definitely worth a visit.

Look for West Market Square with its distinctive modern sculpture and Broad Street.
In Market Plaza, look for the Charles Inn, and Big Easy Lounge & Cafe and Broad Street Market.

The CHARLES INN, downtown Bangor's only hotel, is an older stylish and elegant establishment with all the amenities travelers are looking for.  It's convenient to restaurants, pubs, parks, and waterfront strolls.  Enjoy a daily deluxe continental breakfast.  In the lobby there is a nice art gallery and free Internet. Located at 20 Broad St. Call 207-992-2820.

If your're driving, you must turn right onto State Street, which leads to the Eastern Maine Medical Center and, eventually, to Orono and the University of Maine. Look for the Yankee Cobbler.

If you're walking, you can proceed straight onto Central Street. Here you'll come upon IPanema Bar & Grill, Giacomo's, 11 Central, Epic Sports, Central Street Yoga, Central Street Studios, KaBang, Coco Loco, Friar's Bakehouse, Top Shelf Comics, Om Lard Yoga, Briar Patch, Central Maine Farm House, The Bennett Gallery, Rock & Art Shop, Bagel Central, Bangor Museum and History Center,  UMaine Museum of Art, Northeast Reprographics, Burr Printing, Maritime International, Blind Faith Tattoes, Java Joe's, and Book Marc's.

Yankee Mag
azine says FRIAR'S BAKEHOUSE is New England's "best slice of heaven." According to Yankee, Brohers Kenneth Leo and Donald Paul bake dIvine breads along with sinful whoopie pies and other treats."

The Sohns Family, which runs The Rock and Art Shop on the Bangor Road in Ellsworth, have opened a companion shop in downtown Bangor. Here the emphasis is on art and gifts. As Tony Sohns puts it, "If the first store is a rock shop with gifts, the new one is a gift shop with rocks." An important part of the new shop is the SOHNS GALLERY, featuring showings by Maine artists changing every three months.

Keep the kids happy by picking up some books at THE BRIAR PATCH on Central Street. Included here is a large selection by Maine authors and illustrators.

on Central Street is a kosher-like bakery offering terrific bagels, pastries, vegetarian specials and specialty gourmet recipes.

Paul Zebiak at MARITIME INTERNATIONAL is always buying and selling gold, silver, platinum, and also diamonds. 
Established in 1979 as Maritime Coins, his company over the years has developed markets in antique watches, estate jewelry and historical memorabilia, with a particular interest in militaria, specifically worldwide medals, orders and decorations..

On Harlow Street, look for BYDESIGN ART GALLERY. All they show is original art by regional artists. No prints allowed and no artists from far away.

11 CENTRAL STREET is a beautiful place to eat, all exposed brick walls and hardwood floors. You can get pretty much anything you want —everything is made fresh and to order. They're open from 4 p.m. til midnight, six days a week. Closed Tuesday.

On Harlow Street, look for Qi Gong Studio, Book Marc's, Bangor City Hall, Pierce Memorial, Tesoro Pizzeria & Restaurant, Bangor Public Library, Diversified Ink Tattoo Studio, Club Ice & Jazz Club Federal Building, Peace and Justice Center of Eastern Maine, Intown Plaza: Bangor Music Center, Bair's Driving School, Gosslin's Bakery, Media Works Enterprise, Collette's Art Studio, Brogue Insurance and Financial Services, MAS Home Care, Vet Center, Citizens of Maine, Child Development Service, Harlow Laundromat, Premier Tae.

PEACE & JUSTICE CENTER OF EASTERN MAINE is engaged in a number of social causes--everything from the Maine state budget crisis and the desecration of the Maine woods to religious conflict in India and the future of Haiti. There is usually something special happening at the center. If you lean toward progressiveness, you might want to stop in and meet the good folks here.

You're required to turn right here and proceed on State Street. Look for Ageless Treasures, Downeast Coins and Collectibles, Yankee  Cobbler,m Frati Pawn Shop (where Stephen King has said he gets his inspiration), State Street goes past Eastern Maine Medical Center, Hogan Road, and on to Orono. Businesses along the way include Authentic Thai Food, Dollar Store, Diversity, The Buy & Sell Shop, Citgo, Posh Salon, Legacy Sandwich Shop, Frank's Bake Shop, State Street Wine Cellar, Miller Drug, S.J. Rollins Technologies, Hose Fire Museum, Bangor Women's Health Care, Papa Gambino's, Coffee Express, Irving, Eastern Maine Medical Center, Cascade Park, Dorothea Dix Psychiatric Center.

FRATI JEWELRY, a high-quality second-hand store, specializes in cameras and consumer electronics. There's also plenty of jewelry on hand, all discounted 50 percent. Stephen King has said he gets most of his ideas here. (King's house on Outer Broadway, with its famous spider gate, attracts plenty of gawkers.)

Centuries ago, shoes were invented, and soon there was a need for cobblers to repair them. Then, in modern times, shoes became commodities, items casually discarded when they got old, unfashionable, or damaged. Bucking this trend is Jonathan Lambert of YANKEE COBBLER, who for over a decade has been using century-old techniques to repair shoes in his State Street shop. We had all but given up on our favorite sandals when the straps of one came loose from the sole. On a hunch we brought them into Jonathan, and for a few bucks he made them good as new. Located at 25 State St., this is the only cobbler in Maine north of Waterville. Open year round, the shop is handicapped accessible and acepts credit cards and personal checks. You can get orthopedic alterations here.

Knowledgable locals overwhelmingly prefer the STATE STREET WINE CELLAR at 195 State St. They know they'll find over 50 types of cheese, 225 different beers, and 850 different wines. They know they can depend upon the staff to be friendly, informed, and totally accommodating. Finally, they look forward to the store's monthly wine tastings and wine dinners at local restaurants.

Check out the floral displays at LOUGEE & FREDERICK'S  on State Street in Bangor. These guys have won numerous awards. Over onm Center Street, BANGOR FLORAL is situated in a beautiful converted church.


The Fiddlehead Restaurant

In the heart of Bangor's  downtown, THE FIDDLEHEAD RESTAURANT  takes a fresh look at  "fine dining". Using only the finest ingredients, the folks here  bring a little extra finesse to comfort-style dishes, interpreted from cuisine ranging from the Far East to Down East. Changing seasonally, each menu finds something for every taste and mood. Much of the produce and meats are acquired locally and, when possible,  from New England-based farmers' markets. The full bar offers of house-made cocktails, created with fresh-squeezed juices and natural purees; each made-to-order with particular requests a specialty. Provided also is an ample selection of non-alcoholic beverages, from bellinis to the house signature cucumber-mint lemonade.

In Downtown Bangor, international cuisine is provided by Pakistani, Indian, and Chinese restaurants. Exotic spices and simple fare are offered by owner Farzana Khan at Bahaar Pakistani Restaurant. Biryani, massala, palak paneer, curries, traditional breads, mangoe shakes are just a few of the items available.

Bangor city fathers haven't chosen to name property after STEPHEN KING.  There is no Stephen King boulevard or King Memorial Park. Local entrepreneurs don't seem inclined to cash in on King's notoriety, either. There is no Overlook Hotel or Needful Things curio shop. Maybe business people shy away from associating themselves with horror. What's more likely, however, is that they are just acting like Mainers, people very much inclined to tend to their own business, not that of others. King likes living in Bangor in part because people don't treat him like he's anything special. He can grab breakfast at the local coffee shop without there being any more fuss than somebody saying "Mornin', Steve."

Evidently, King has asked the Chamber of Commerce not to direct visitors to his house. It is, after all, a private residence, and King can hardly be expected to extend a personal welcome to every curious person who comes along. Still, King hasn't asked us to keep his whereabouts a secret. We couldn't anyway. Just about everybody in town knows that King lives on West Broadway in an early lumber baron's old house. We are sure that the readers of our book are highly literate types who want nothing more than to photograph King's house and gate.
Still, King has attracted more than his share of whackos. One guy who shows up in town from time has covered his van with documentation that King murdered John Lennon. Another guy appeared in King's kitchen and told Tabitha he was taking her hostage. "The hell you are," she replied before retreating to a neighbor's house from which she called the police. Another time, a mysterious package apeared outside King's gate. The police, suspecting it was a bomb, blew it to bits. It turned out to be a copy of "It" that a fan had left in hopes of having it autographed. Stephen King is Downeast Maine's only REALLY FAMOUS PERSON. Oh, sure, we have Hannibal Hamlin, Lincoln's first vice president, who had ties with Hampden, and Dorothea Dix, who did everything she could to help the mentally ill. And, of course, some famous rich people like the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers spent time on Mount Desert Island, but they weren't really from there. King, on the other hand, is ours. He graduated from the University of Maine at Orono and was living in a trailer in Hermon and working at a Bangor laundry when the vivid shower scene in Carrie caught the attention of the folks at Viking.

According to Yankee Magazine, the Best Tour of Stephen King.dom is the "Tommyknockers and More" which provides "the skinny on everyone's favorite horror maven." According to Yankee, "this motorcoach tour highlighting sites that have either played a role in his books or were featured in his movies. The lineup includes fan favorite Mount Hope Cemetery, where King himself presided over the funeral of Missy Dandridge in Pet Sematary. Tickets are $20 per person. Call 800-916-6673.
Bangor has other outstanding used book shops. PRO LIBRIS, with more than 20,000 current and out-of-print books in stock, is strong in issue-oriented materials. Lippincott Books has besides many ordinary used books a large stock of rare and valuable volumes. Book Marc's on Harlow St. has both new and pre-read books, and has recently added a cafe where you can borrow a book while you sip your coffee and eat your bagel.

When we got into a jam, we ot really good service from COY'S TOWING AND AUTO CARE at 1576 Hammond St. The guys here went way out of their way to help us out.

If you exit I-95 onto Broadway, the first place you'll see to your left is Tri City Pizza. Further on past China Light is the Broadway Shopping Center. Look for Tim Horton's, McDonald's, Kentucky Fried Chicken, TJ Maxx and More, Amato's, Hannaford Super Market, Home Goods, Sherwin Williams, Bangor Savings Bank, Movie Gallery, Bobo Chinese Restaurant, Hallmark, Empire, Payless Shoes, and U.S. Cellular.


A turn off I-95 onto Broadway will direct you to businesses that incvlude Tri City Pizza, Headies Glass Gallery, China Light, Tim Horton's, KFC, Pizza Hut, McDonald's, Jimmy V's, Governor's, T.J. Maxx, BoBo Chinese Restaurant, Sun Tan City, Sherwin Williams, Gold Crown, Planet Fitness, Aaron's, Empire, Hannaford, Family Dollar, Rite Aide, Walgreen, Subway, Dunkin' Donuts, Eye Center Northeast, Glad Tidings Church, KevLan, Gifford's Ice Cream, Judson Heights Center: Cigaret Shopper, Broadway TV & Appliances, Dunham's Furniture, Cotton Cupboard Quilt Shop, The Growing Place.


On Stillwater Avenue look for The Centre. Here you'll find the House of Pizza, Elegant Nails, a Federal Credit Union, Specialty Sweets, Liberty Income Tax Service, All-State, All About Travel, Lamb's Book Store, VIP Auto Center,

Across from the Mall on Stillwater, look for Blue Seal Feed, Mallside Discount Outlet, Merrill Merchants Bank, China Wall Restaurant and Lounge, Day's Jewelry, Wight's Sporting Goods, Home Design Center, Tool Supply, and Liberty Mutual. Nearby look for McQuick's and Dunkin' Donuts.

Across Stillwater, look for a Goodwill Store, Petco, the Happy China Buffet, Pet Quarters, Sylvan Learning Center, Wallpaper Expo, Jo-Ann Stores, Dollar Tree, Home Depot, Chili's Grill & Bar, Carpet One, Talbot's, Concentra Urgent Care, Central Maine Harley Davidson, a Subway, Postal Center, Pepino's Mexican Restuarant, The Gold Experts, SuperCuts, Verizon Wireless, Papa Johns, Kohl's, L. L. Ban Outlet, Old Navy, A.C. Moore Arts & Crafts, Famous Footwear, Dress Barn,  Big Lots, Party City, Ultra Beauty, Pet Smart, Sally Beauty Supply, Party City, Game Stop, Buffalo Wild Wings, Hobby Lobby,  and Texas Roadhouse.

North of Hogan Road, look for Target and the Natural Living Centers.

If you think that health food stores are too pricey, you'll be pleasantly surprised at many of the prices at the NATURAL LIVING CENTER. There is, for example, a huge selection of herbs and spices at prices up to 80 percent lower than those of supermarkets. "We try to buy smart and pass the savings on to our customers," says co-owner Barbara Geiger. She says that people come from as far away as Portland to shop for health foods. Also on hand are a fine Oriental food selection, a terrific book section, and,a huge variety of imported beers and home-brew equipment. NLC stocks at least a dozen varieties of rice. Nationwide mail order 1-800-933-4229. At their Natural Way Cafe, they have good soup, sandwiches, and cookies along with a whole lot more.


The Bangor Mall on Hogan Avenue and Stillwater is Bangor's major shopping center. Shops include Abercrombie & Fitch, Advance Auto Parts, Aerie by American Eagle Outfitters, Aeropostale , American Eagle Outfitters, Arby's, Bangor Savings Bank, B. Dalton Bookseller, Bangor Sub & Deli, Bank of America, Bath & Body Works , BC Sports Collectibles, Berg Sportswear, Best Buy, Bob's Sugar House, Bugaboo Creek Steak House, Build-A-Bear Workshop, Charlotte Russe, Christmas Vacation Shop, Christopher & Banks , Cinemas 10, CJ Banks, Claire's, Comedy Connection, Computer Essentials, Dairy Queen / Orange Julius, Deb, Dick's Sporting Goods, EB Games, Finish Line, Flavor of India, Foot Locker, Gap, GapKids, GM Pollack & Sons, GNC, and Hallowell International.

COMPUTER ESSENTIALS, with stores in Bangor and Ellsworth,  provides Computer Service Centers for small businesses and home users. Services include networking support and an excellent selection of new and used systems along with custom-built computers with whatever components customers choose.

Also in the Bangor Mall are a, Hannaford Super Market, Hickory Farms, Hollister, Hot Topic, J.B. Robinson Jewelers, JC Penney, JCPenney Portrait Studio, JCPenney Salon, John's Collectibles, Journeys, Justice, Just for girls!, KB Toys, Kay Jewelers, Lane Bryant, LensCrafters, Lids, Macy*s, Maine Mobility, Maine Porcelain, MasterCuts, Minuteman Mobile, Motherhood Maternity, New York & Company, Olympia Sports, Oriental Express, Oriental Jade, Pacific Sunwear, Patrick's Hallmark, Payless Shoe Source, Pearle Vision Express, Personalize Me, Piercing Pagoda, Proactiv Solution, Radio Shack, Ruby Tuesday, Sbarro's Italian Eatery, Sears, Select Comfort, Space Port, Specialty Sweets, Spencer Gifts, Staples, Star Nails, Starbucks Coffee, Studio 2000, Sunglass Hut, Sweet Stuff, The Children's Place, The Optometrist, The Shoe Department, Things Remembered, Trade Secret, Uno Chicago Grill, US Cellular, Verizon Wireless, Victoria's Secret, Yankee Candle, and Zales Jewelers. 

On the north side of Hogan Road, look for the Bangor Business Park. You'll find a WalMart, a Kentucky Fried Chicken, Burlington Coat Factory, the Ski Rack, CITI Financial, Van Syckle Auto Sales, and the Longhorn Steak House.

In Springer Place, there is the Downeast Credit Union, Bonney Staffing Center, Dr. Linwood Colson, Life Share Management Corp. Nearby, look for the 99 Restaurant & Pub, Super Shoes, Quirk Auto, Darling Ford, Denny's, and Sam's Club.

In Shaw's Plaza, look for Shear Attraction, Malibu Tans, Quiznos, Strictly Formal, Natural Nails, an Armed Forces Recruiting Center, Marlene's Uniforms, and Bull Moose Music,

Back on the southside of Hogan Road, there is a Big K Mart, Little Caesars Pizza, Hands of Hope Thrift Store, Appleby's, Miquel's Mexican Restaurant, Bangor Motor Inn, an Olive Garden, Finest Hearth, and a Comfort Inn.

ROLLAND F. PERRY CITY FOREST, accessible via Kittredge Road and Tripp Drive,  encompasses more than 680 acres of wildlife habitat and working forest . It features more than 4 miles of access roads and more than 9 miles of trails for running, hiking, biking, snowshoeing, and cross country skiing.

The ORONO BOG BOARDWALK, open seasonally, is popular with folks wishing to experience the beauty and fascinating plants and animals of a Maine bog.  The one-mile boardwalk loop trail begins at the forested wetland edge in the Bangor City Forest, and after 800 feet crosses the town line into the University of Maine owned part of the bog in Orono.  Along the way, it passes through changing vegetation and environments on its way to the open, peat moss carpeted center of the Orono Bog.

N.H. BRAGG & SONS, an industrial supply company, keeps a very low profile in the Bangor Industrial Park, but, to those in the know, it makes available a large, discount hardware and automotive supply outlet. Prices here are just a bit above wholesale.

A well-kept secret in Bangor is the availability of smoked hams prepared by W.A. BEAN AND SONS.

The COLE LAND TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM is notable for its great variety. On display are over 150 vehicles ranging from an antique baby carriage to a locomotive and railroad station, horse-drawn logging sleds and logging trucks, wagons and sleighs, vintage cars and trucks, snowplows and fire trucks. Adults $5, children age 19 and under free, seniors over 62 $3, AAA discount $4. (You find the place by taking Exit 45B off I-95, turning left at the first light, then left on Perry Road.)

PENOBSCOT PADDLE AND CHOWDER SOCIETY  is a nonprofit organization of people whose common interest is canoeing, kayaking, and other related outdoor activities. Members are found throughout New England. Out-of-state visitors can get in on the society's trips. Call Kate Judy at 207-843-7983.

has marvelous, recently-restored European stained-glass windows.

Bangor boasts the nation's oldest symphony orchestra and the state's only year round repertory theater group.


Winterport, situated 12 miles south of Bangor on Rte 1A, was important a century ago as the last anchorage on the Penobscot River that always remained ice-free. WINTERPORT HISTORIC DISTRICT, a cohesive, homogeneous grouping of late 18th, 19th and early 20th century buildings is in the National Register of Historic Places.


If you head south on Main Street (Route 15) here, you'll find yourself on the Orrington Road. Look for High Tide Restaurant & Bar, First United Methodist Church, Save A Lot Food Store, Balance, Hair & Body, Brewer Public Library, Mobil, Cowan's Citgo, Jct. 395, Brewer Health Center, Van Raymond's, St. Teresa Catholic Church, A Body In Knead, Tozier's Market, Cap's Tavern, TD's Pizzeria, Pepino's, Ron's Cafe, School Hose Antique Mall, Brookside Grill, Premier Granite, Second Congregational Church, Wiswell Farm Green House, Maine Karote, Show's Corner Plaza: Dunkin Donuts, Pizzaland, Mutt & Jeff Grooming, Orrington House of Ice Cream, River Road Vetinary Hospital, Payne Gardens, Lighthouse Church of God, U.S. Post Office, Mobile Marine Services, Little Ways Day Care, Orrington Antiques, Kindred Spirit Vetinary Clinic, Christmas Tree Farm, Edward K. Arey Communty Center, North Bucksport United Methodist Church, Well Drilling, Carol's Neighborhood Gym, Vance's Tropical Church, Bob's Small Engine.

MOBIL MARINE SERVICE on the River Road in Orrington will come to you, usually on the day you call.

Back in Brewer, just off North Main Street on Center Street, look for  Brawn Computer Services, Brewer Floral & Gift, Between Friends / Next Generation Theatre, Pam's Furniture, and Innovations Hair Salon.

Heading east, North Main Street turns into Route 9, a straight shot clear to Calais. On North Main, look for Boomer Fitness, Computer RepairNorth Brewer Shopping Center, the City Center, Hair and Company,  Jester's, City Side Restaurant & Banquet Hall, Paradis IGA, Citgo, Four Seasons Chinese Restaurant, Thrift Store & More, Edge, DC's Variety Store, Tangles Hair & Nail Salon,  Jimmie's Ice Cream & Grille, Indian Trail Park,, Duff and Associates, St. Joseph's Catholic Church, Twin City Baptist Church, Eale Ridge Senior Citizen Mobile Park, Penobscot Salmon Club, East Coast Auto Body, Eagle's Nest Restaurant, Airline Motor Inn, River's Edge Variety Store, Crosby's Gun Shop, North Brewer-Eddington United Methodist Church.

Large portions are what make the EAGLES NEST RESTAURANT in Eddington noteworthy. The burger we had there reminded us of a small meatloaf. The restaurant, situated on Route 9, also keeps prices modest.

Look for the turn onto Route 178, which takes you to Milford. On Rte 178, look for Walton's Campground, S&S Auto Sales, Penobscot River Public Boat Launch Facility, The Dragon Forge Blacksmith Shop, Concept Autoworks, Leonard's Mills, Penobscot Experimental Forest, and Claudia's Seafood.

Back on Rte 9, look for Rideout Gardens, Peavey Manufacturing Co., Eddington Store, Backdoor Dance Studio, Eddington Town Offices, Crewley Farm Restaurant, Stinson's Auto SalesAuto Works, Weathervane Factory, New Hope Hospice, Eddington-Clifton Civic Center, East Eddington Community Church.

A right turn puts you on Rte 46, which leads to Bucksport.

Back on Rte 9, look for the Tradewinds Variety Store, Eddington Auto Sales, Clifton Town Offices, Krafty Kreations Gift Shop, and the Clifton Country Store.

A right onto Rte 180 leads to Rebel Hill Marine, Dietrich Gunsmithy, Mott's Garage, the Otis General Sto
re and, eventually, the City of Ellsworth.

Back on Rte 9, look for Parks Pond Campground, Sawmill Woods Golf Course, Amherst General Store & Restaurant, Tannery Loop Collectibles, Alpaca Perfection, and Knadler Real Estate.

SAWMILL WOODS GOLF COURSE, a new family-owned and operated facility 15 miles east of Brewer,   is a nine-hole, par 36 course with secluded fairways cut through the Maine forest, following the natural contours of the land. The large, undulating greens and tight fairways are enhanced by landscaping throughout, presenting golfers of every level both challenges and beauty.

Way back in Brewer, the Twin City Plaza is home to EMMC Family Medicine of Brewer, Dollar Tree, Winterport Boot, HHC Healthcare, Bedworks, L Factor, Cosmos Prof, Celtic Moon Rising, Maine Savings, H&R Brock, Atlantic Home Health Inc.MMIC Family Medicine,  Snap Fitness, Maine Center for Integrated Rehab, China Rose Buffet.

The shop CELTIC MOON RISING carries an interesting assortment of goods, including imports from Ireland, Scotland, and Wales.  This is Maine's only dedicated Celtic shop.

Down State Street is the State Street Plaza. Look for Reboot PC Repair, Hair & Co., Riverview Tattoo, Curves, and Jimi's Trading Center.

In Brewer, Wilson Street turns into Rte 1A, the road to Ellsworth. After crossing the bridge into Brewer, you'll pass High Tide Restaurant & Bar, Bangor Discount Furniture, Brewer Historical Society Clewley Museum, , Shear Delight, Brewer Auditorium, Village Green Motel,
Brewer Motor Inn
, Brewsters, Sun Tan City, Movie Gallery, Pat's Bikes, Yoshi, Jason's Pizza, Advance Auto Parts, and Dunkin Donuts.

The HIGH TIDE RESTAURANT & BAR, which serves Satuday and Sunday brunch, features a Raw Oyster bar and also a Bloody Mary bar. Open year round, there is summertime outdoor dining beside the scenic Penobscot River.

On the right is the Brewer Shopping Center with its various businesses. Look for Hannaford Super Market, Family Dollar, Designs by Donna, Electrolux, Maine Smoke Shop, RAC Rent-a-Center, Edge Video, Purse Hollywood, Infinity 24 Hair & Spa, Dream Dress Bridal, U.S. Cellular, Laundry and Cleaners, Insurance Shoppers, Rainbow Chinese Restaurant, Pine Tree Karote, Hayes Unfinished Furniture, and Bangor Savings Bank.

Nearby look for a Tim Horton's, Kostas Restaurant and bar, Rite Aide Pharmacy, Walgreen's,  Cozy Inn, Tradewinds Variety, Prompto, New Stable Inn, Vacationland Village Inn & Suites, Cigarette Shoppe, Coach House Restaurant, Downeast Sticks 'n' Stones Bead Shop, Aubuchon Hardware, Prompto Oil Change, KFC/Taco Bell, Subway, Noodles, and DQ, and Playland Adventures.

VACATIONLAND VILLAGE INN & SUITES  has had a major facelift. Nor long ago, a local area couple bought the place and completely refurbished it. It has been transformed, brought up from having a decidedly shady reputation to being kid-friendly and downright wholesome. The place has been given a Maine theme—here a moose, there a bear, over there a loon. The bar is gone, replaced by the Lighthouse Christian Cafe, a coffeehouse with live Christian music.

bills itself as the largest, can’t-miss attraction for family fun in Maine. It's home to Maine’s original Bounce Zone, including a 95-foot Obstacle Course and Maine’s largest Indoor Slide! It's a wonderful place to let kids loose to have a ball!

Across the way is  Kool Rayz, VIP Auto, Morall Brakes, DQ, McDonald's, Bangor Brewer Lanes, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Marden's, Penobscot Cleaning Services, Sullivan Tire, Tire Warehouse, Sunrise Glass, Machias Savings BankUrban Garden Center, GoodwillUnique Boutique Resale Shop, House of Hunan, Quiznos Subs, Lee Credit Now Auto Sales, Chapter 11 Closeoout Furniture, Bangor Car Care, Downeast Auto Body, Downeast Toyota, Ruby Tuesday, Super Walmart, Stonington's, Dunkin Donuts, Weathervane Restaurant, and Show Case Homes.

The MCDONALD'S on your right features intriguing retro fifties decor, the only such place in New England.

GOODWILL acquired my goodwill the day I needed a keyboard for my Mac. Found a good-as-new  Apple keyboard there. Price? Two bucks. Later I got a fine digital camera for four and after that a top-of-the-line, hundred-dollar Sony radio for seven. For ten bucks, you can get a discount card that gives you a ten percent discount on every purchase for a year. Oh, every day a certain color labels provides a 50 percent discount. When you pay, the cashier thanks you for supporting their program. Is this a great world or what?

Wilson Square
has the Brewer Medical Center and My Gym.

Further on, you'll see a Lowes and the onramp to I-395. Look for Maine Fireworks, Mitchell's Antiques, Brewer Physical TherapyResults Physical Therapy, Big Jake's Go Karts, Traditions Golf Club, and  Pat's Pizza.

TRADITIONS GOLF CLUB  features go carts, mini golf, driving range, snack bar and interesting 9-hole golf course. During the off-season, it offers indoor golf.


Watch for McKay's RV Center, Port Harbor Marine, Dysart's Travel Stop, Brewer Physical Therapy, IrvingCountry Kitchen Bakery Thrift Shop, Holden Family Campground, Holden Family RV, Renaisance Dogs, Swish Cleaning Center,
Maine Military Supply, Garrett's Auto Sales and Service, Granville Rental, Holden Self Storage. Horse and Rider, Hill View Mini Barns, Cagne Concrete ProductsMyerowitz Chiropractic & Acupuncture Clinic, Tomb Cemetery, Al Benner Homes, Sarah's House,  Harold's Transmission Service, Old Paddy Hollow Antiques, Holden Bait, Holdren Community Learning Nature Trails, Red Barn Campground, Red Barn Diner, Ace Hardware, Mid-Coast Fine Antiques, Holden Cabinet and Millwork, an old cemetery, a Mobil Service Center, Big Bang Boom Fireworks, Rock Solid Disc Golf, McLeod's Guns and Coins, Jim's Coin & Country Store, Jone's Lobster Company, Ledbetter's,  Hummingbird Hollow, Darlene's Dolls, U.S. Post Office, Grace Baptist Church, and Merrill Bank.

OLD PADDY HOLLOW GIFTS & TREASURES offers a huge variety of  antiques and gift ideas. Come here for personalized signs and handcrafted greeting cards.  Craft classes are held regularly.

he RED BARN CAMPGROUND on the Bar Harbor Road in Holden offers 120 sites, most with water, sewer and electric hookups, some with 50 amp service. Situated just a few minutes from I-95, the campground is handy both to Bangor/Brewer and Ellsworth/Mount Desert Island. It's basically Bar Harbor at half the price!

The RED BARN DINER, situated next to the campground, provides breakfast all day along with lunch and dinner. There are fresh pastries and bread made on the premises. There's also lobster, fresh fish, daily specials, and a children's menu. Eat inside or outside, your choice.

According to the folks at
BIG BANG BOOM FIREWORKS, Cinderella had fireworks at her wedding, and you should too. Consequently, they have  put together fireworks packages especially for nuptialian occasions. Nothing like starting out married life with a blast.

ooking for something new and fun? Consider ROCK SOLID DISC GOLF. Don't know what this is? Disc golf is a lot like traditional golf, except players use specifically made plastic flying discs instead of balls, throwing them at  above-ground targets. There are different types of discs for different purposes. The player begins by "driving" from a designated tee area and continues toward the target, throwing each consecutive shot from where the previous throw landed. Play continues until the disc is tossed into a basket. Presently under construction, Rock Solid ultimately will be a challenging 18-hole course.  Right now you can play Rock Solid's front nine for just $5. Rental discs are available free of charge.

At the junction of Rte 46, a right will take you to Bucksport.

Continuing on Route 1-A, look for DysartsGrand Lodge of Maine Library & Museum, Phantom Fireworks, C&M Family Market, Dunkin Donuts, a Subway and Dorsey's Furniture, Foto-Fixer, Lucerne Self-Storage, Lucerne Veterinarian Hospital, Down East Dive Shop, Acadia  Spray Foam Insulation, Lucerne Auto Sales, Lucerne Inn, Lucerne-in-Maine Golf Club, Field Stone Estates, Nice Twice, Sportman's Court.

The LUCERNE INN is haunted. There is a long history of things going bump in the night, lights mysteriously turning on and off, and objects spontaneously setting sail. It seems that Sam, the caretaker of the place when it was a stagecoach stop, caught his wife extending excessive hospitality to a guest in room 8. Enraged, he murdered the offending couple before offing himself. Word has it he's still mad, and cursing the place (although he never bothers the guests).

Like your courses hilly? You'll love the LUCERNE GOLF CLUB. Besides hills, it boasts some of the finest greens found anywhere. This  challenging Donald Ross course, established in 1926, is a truly fine 9-hole test of any player's abilities. The green fees are among the lowest around. Seniors play a popular 9 a.m. Monday morning scramble. Call 207-843-6282.

Keep going and you'll see a turnoff to Jenkin 's Beach and Violette's Landing on Green Lake.

This trek continues in Chapter Ellsworth Area.